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Shroud Cay and Camp Driftwood

January 20, 2020

Our anchor had barely settled into the patch of white sand in seven feet of water behind Shroud Cay when a dinghy approached from the only other boat in the anchorage.  When pulling into a quiet cove with only one other boat, one never knows if you are welcome company or intruding on another boat’s solitude.  In this case, the solo captain from the other boat was eager for others to share the special landscape.  Coincidently, the other boat in the anchorage was the same make as Alembic, our Whitby 42 ketch.  There is an immediate kinship that forms with owners of sister ships and our visit with Russ from NautiCuss was no exception.  Russ bounded aboard our boat and we swapped Whitby trivia as if we were old friends.  The conversation turned toward Bahamas cruising and Russ was eager to share some local knowledge.  Since this was our first visit to Shroud Cay we were keen to learn of some new spots.

Secluded beach on Shroud Cay

One of the magical things about cruising with an open itinerary is that unique opportunities for adventure seem to spontaneously appear.  Russ invited us to join him on an afternoon dinghy exploration up a creek that meanders across the cay to a secluded beach on the ocean side.  As a bonus, there was also a hike up to the notorious but elusive Camp Driftwood.  For those who don’t know the legend, Camp Driftwood was the site of a DEA reconnaissance perch that had a view of Norman’s Cay.  Between 1978 and 1982 Norman’s was the headquarters for Carlos Lehder’s drug smuggling operation.  At the time, Lehder was running distribution for the Medellin Cartel under the notorious Pablo Escobar.

Dinghy excursion through the creek

We headed out in our dinghy on a rising tide following Russ into the entrance of the creek.  In places the creek was quite shallow. Despite the limited tidal range in the Exumas, running the creek during the upper half of the tide offered a bit more water below the prop.  The downside of an incoming tide was that the current was running strong in a few places.  Our dinghy, with only a six HP outboard, struggled a few times to stem the current.  Back and forth we meandered until the bright blue of the deep water cut became visible in the distance.  Around a final corner we grounded onto a pristine white sand beach with open ocean to one side and the waters of the creek to the other.  

Approaching the ocean-side secluded beach from the creek channel

We eagerly scrambled ashore and planted an anchor high up the beach to keep the dinghy from wandering off on a solo excursion.  The white sand of the beach extended out to seaward creating a beautiful spot to swim or just wade in the gin clear water.  Finding the trail to Camp Driftwood proved to be easier than anticipated.  The trail head was right at the edge of the beach. The actual site of the DEA lookout is also easily identified. In recent years, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park have erected a sign marking the spot.

Camp Driftwood welcome

The hike to the summit of the hill was fairly easy but we were glad just the same that we had brought sturdy sandals for the adventure.  Once we reached the top, we were rewarded with an excellent 360 degree view.  The distance to the airfield on Norman’s was further than expected.  In fact the view in that direction was not that great. With powerful binoculars, however, it would likely be possible to observe and identify aircraft taking off and landing on the island’s airstrip. Apparently, this was the primary reason for the reconnaissance site.  From the hilltop on Shroud Cay the DEA officers attempted to track the aircraft smuggling drugs in and out of Norman’s island and report this traffic back to agents in the USA. 

View to the West from Camp Driftwood
View to the North from Camp Driftwood

With our mission accomplished we scrambled back down the hillside to our dinghy and shoved off to catch the last of the incoming current to speed up our return to Alembic.  We thanked Russ for the adventure by treating him to sundowners in our cockpit while we swapped sea stories and shared the beauty of this special spot.

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The Arctic Awaits – High Latitude Sailing in Norway

December 1, 2019

“Portland, Maine” a woman exclaims from the pier.  “Did you sail that boat all the way from Maine?” her male companion chimes in.  We are tied stern to at the visitor’s dock in Ålesund, Norway.  The public floats are traversed several times a day by the parade of tour groups from the visiting cruise ships.  It seems we have become a bonus exhibit for the tour guides.  Americans make up a significant portion of the cruise ship quest list but American sailboats are an unusual sight in Norway.  “We did in fact” replies my wife politely answering the woman.  “Last summer we sailed from the Caribbean to Bermuda, Bermuda to the Azores, and then from the Azores to Ireland”.  This answer inevitably leads to other incredulous follow-up questions from the visitors.  Their cruise ship lifestyle is a world apart from our life aboard Alembic, our 42 foot ketch.   

By the time we arrived in Ålesund, we had already been in Norway several weeks.  We departed Peterhead, on the northeast coast of Scotland in late May.  After a two day crossing of the North Sea, we made landfall just south of Bergen, Norway.  Our first two remote Norwegian anchorages gave us a taste of the amazing landscape and numerous secure coves that make Norway such a special destination.  Fortunately, the landscape makes up for the rainy weather we experienced in the month of June.  The cruising guides warn of the wet climate especially in the area around Bergen.  The west coast of Norway sticks out into the North Sea like the snout of a walrus.  Rugged mountains rise abruptly from the sea.  This geography causes low pressure systems sweeping into the North Sea to unload the moisture they have lugged across the Atlantic.  This weather pattern, however, also rewards those who venture further North.  The further North you travel in Norway, the less it rains.  

The goal we had set for ourselves during our winter ashore in Maine was to sail above the Arctic Circle.  We hoped to do this as close to the summer solstice as possible so we could experience the “midnight sun”.  This goal took on more importance one night at our local ski bar, the Loose Boots Lounge, when we shared the idea with close friends and fellow sailors Cam and Julie.  After a couple of PBR’s it was decided.  If we sailed Alembic, our Whitby 42, north of Bergen, they would join us for a 2 week cruise across 66.5N latitude and into the Arctic.  

Not surprising, sailing on the coast of Norway is a dream vacation for many adventuresome travelers.  Our daughter Lindsay and her boyfriend David, as well as our niece Danielle and her friend Blanca enthusiastically booked trips to join us.  Luckily, airports are scattered all over Norway so we were able to arrange arrivals that dove-tailed with destinations we were eager to explore.  Lindsay and David joined us in Bergen for a cruise among the fjords and quaint coastal islands that surround this lively and historic city.  After their departure, we hopped north to Ålesund visiting several special stops along the way including Skjerjehamn where paintings and sculptures grace the surroundings both inside and out.  On our way north in June we had this quiet setting all to ourselves.  When we returned in July we found an entirely different scene!  Skjerjehamn was packed with dozens of boats and hundreds of people enjoying a three day music festival.   

Guest dock and restaurant at Skjerjehamn

In Ålesund, we were joined by the two enthusiastic recent college grads, Danielle and Blanca.  We were eager to show them the magic of Norway so we set sail for one of the most beautiful, and uncrowded fjords in this part of the coast.  The nearby Geirangerfjorden is one of the most photographed fjords in all of Norway but this celebrity status draws a crowd of tourist excursion boats.  Instead, we sailed up the Hjørundfjord just to the west and tied up for two idyllic days at the guest dock in Øye.  From here we had access to amazing hiking on the peaks of Saksa and Slogen.  We also enjoyed a gentrified evening piano recital at the Union Hotel which is famous for hosting Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany for several summers at the turn of the 20th century.

Alembic deep in a Norwegian fjord

With our guests already giddy about these adventures we kept the momentum going by taking them to the southern-most puffin colony in Norway on Runde Island.  The puffins did not disappoint with their casual tolerance of the gawking admirers.  To top off the week of adventure, we headed back to Ålesund for front-row seats at the largest bonfire in the world held on the summer solstice celebration.  The 135’ wooden tower of shipping pallets burned with Scandinavian precision from top to bottom over a two hour celebration of the longest day of the year.

Puffin at Runde Island rookery
World’s largest bonfire at Ålesund on the solstice

With the departure of our niece and her friend, it was time to get down to some serious Arctic sailing.  As promised, we met our adventuresome friends Cam and Julie in the city of Molde with its spectacular downtown filled with flowers.  After a quick provisioning run, we set off for our first stop at the pretty little island of Magerøya.  This little island is a world to itself graced with new guest docks in sharp contrast to the 19th century merchant hall that currently houses a small restaurant.  The island with its historic structures is under the care of a group of young people who manage the restaurant, raise wild sheep, and assure that the setting remains welcoming to visiting boats.  Although it was raining upon our arrival, we had a hardy meal of Bacalao, the delicious regional fish stew, and learned more about the island history from one of its young stewards.

One unique aspect of traveling the Norwegian coast is that most vessels travel along the semi-sheltered channels leading through the numerous coastal islands.  At these high latitudes during summer it is either daylight or twilight essentially 24 hours of the day.  Given these conditions, we found that it was easy to make 100 mile hops up the coast in order to savor some of the prime stops further along the Helgeland Coast.  This scenic region of Norway stretches from the archipelago around Vega to just north of the Arctic Circle.  Its portfolio of natural wonders includes the low lying islands stretching for miles off the coast, puffin rookeries, and rugged unique coastal mountains.  We cherry-picked a couple of favorite stops that were easily accessible from anchorages or guest docks including the Seven Sisters near Sandnessjøen, Torghatten near Brønnøy, and the Svartisen Glacier.  

Climbing through the hole in the mountain at Toaghatten
Standing at the base of the Svartisen Glacier

After three hundred adventure-filled miles from Molde, it was time to cross the Arctic Circle.  The Arctic Circle is not a fixed latitude.  It is the southern most latitude where the sun does not set on the evening of the June Solstice.  As the earth wobbles on its axis, this latitude is drifting northwards at about forty nine feet per year and currently resides at 66°33′47.8″.  Across the Arctic Circle we sailed, passed a monument marking this milestone and then we jumped into the frigid water to commemorate our arrival.

After two weeks of sailing, hiking, and general adventuring we arrived in the large community of Bodø.  We said goodbye to our friends who shuttled off to the airport and we were back to just the two of us on the boat after a month of visitors.  Bodø proved to be a convenient spot to re-provision and catch up on a few boat projects.  Everything we needed was a short walk from the guest docks along with an assortment of bars and restaurants.

Since it was still early July, we were eager to continue our Norwegian explorations to the unique Lofoten Islands with their stunning landscapes and quaint fishing villages.  We jumped straight to the western end of the island chain with a forty mile day sail to Reine.  This town was voted to be one of the most scenic in the Lofotens.  Fish racks with thousands of cod fish heads drying in the sun made for some interesting photos.  A quick hike up the four hundred and fifty meter peak of Reinebringen offered amazing views of the harbor below and the surrounding mountains.

Fish heads drying on the racks in Lofoten Islands
Reine from a harborside mountain peak

After a spectacular week absorbing the breath-taking scenery of the Lofoten Islands and enjoying endless sunshine, it was time to point our bow south.  We had plans to be in Sweden by mid-August so we took advantage of the mild and settled weather of mid-summer to return to southern Norway.  The tug of Norway proved to be strong, however.  Instead of rounding the southern end of Norway and sailing to Sweden as planned, we lingered in the fjords near Stavanger, Norway into the fall.  We chose to leave Alembic in Stavanger for the winter.  We are still undecided which direction we will travel in the Spring.  We may continue on to Sweden and the Baltic or we may return to the Arctic for another magical summer.  After 4 years of cruising, 22,000 miles, and 27 countries, our visit to the Arctic regions of Norway stands out in our minds as one of our favorite destinations.  One summer in the Arctic may not be enough! 

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Winter Project – Camper Van Conversion

July 2, 2019
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After sailing our Whitby 42 to Europe during the summer of 2018, our cruising calendar changed to accommodate the winter cold of Europe. By mid-October it was best to leave the boat securely in Belgium and travel back to our home in Maine for nearly 6 months – mid-October to mid-April.  Faced with 6 months off the boat, I needed a project to keep me occupied.  We decided to tackle a conversion of a cargo van to a camper van.  Land cruising seems like a great lifestyle to complement our ocean travels so we needed a suitable land yacht.  Here is a quick tour of our van and the construction process.

Van at the time of purchase on the dealer lot

After considering the Mercedes Sprinter and the Ford Transit we decided to purchase a late-model used Ram Promaster for our camper van. Key features of the Promaster are the front wheel drive for performance in the snow, tight turning radius, and wide interior dimension. Our Promaster is a 2018 model year and had 15,000 miles when purchased.

Typical view of the unfinished cargo space

The interior was the typical unfinished cargo space. The only windows in the cargo space were the windows in the rear doors. The interior of our van was clean with only the usual scratches from 12 months of cargo transport.

Interior Windows, Insulation and Panels

After installing new windows in the sliding door and drivers side panels, we were ready to add the insulation and interior panels. We decided to use PVC materials as much as possible to conform to material flammability standards for vehicle interiors. The PVC is also light weight and maintenance free. The ceiling is a tongue and groove PVC plank available from HomeDepot. The wall panels are 1/4″ thick rigid foam PVC .

For insulation, we chose sheep wool. This material offers good thermal and sound insulation with the added benefit of wicking moisture away from the metal. Moisture from the interior condenses on the metal skin of the van and will cause rusting unless it is able to evaporate.

Side Panel Construction: sheep wool insulation and rigid foam PVC panel material
View of the typical ceiling construction: wood blocking, wool insulation, tongue and groove PVC planks

Construction Challenges

We completed the construction of our van at our small cabin in Maine during the snowy winter. Without a garage to use as a shop, construction was completed either in the van or outside.

The 6′ x 10′ interior provides adequate space for panel prep and assembly
Cutting of plywood for furnishings and other materials was done in my outdoor shop

One of my wife’s many talents is sewing including heavy duty items like upholstery and cushions. She was able to make the interior cushions and all window privacy covers. Her construction space was a bit warmer than mine!

Helen sewing window covers in our cabin kitchen area

The Finished Project

View of interior through side door
The Promaster width allows for a 73″x54″ platform bed. Perfectly adequate for most people
The 12V Stakol cooler stows under the dinette seat on a rolling tray
12V Cooler mounted on a rugged rolling base allows it to be pulled out to access as well as providing an extra place to sit
Coleman camping stove stores in a sliding tray that slides under the bed platform
Interior view showing bed, dinette, and galley
Interior of the van with the privacy covers installed

Our plan for the next few years while we are in Europe is to explore the US by van in the late Spring and late Fall. This is the time of the year that the cruising season has ended in Europe and the ski season has not begun in Maine. We will start with the Southwest USA and then branch out from there.

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Atlantic Crossing

June 26, 2018

Day four of an offshore passage seems to be the day when time and distance finally drift to the background. The journey becomes the focus not the landfall. During the first few days of a passage, I am constantly thinking about boat speed, distance covered, and the number of days still required to achieve the destination. This obsession takes me away from the enjoyment of the activities and observations of the passage itself. By the fourth day of a passage, the body has acclimated to the motion of the sea. Sleep patterns have been established, adjusting to the disruption of the three hour night watch that breaks into the peace of uninterrupted sleep that we enjoy while in port. I am finally settling into the journey and becoming reflective of the present. I am living in the moment. Listening to the whispers of the boat in harmony with the environment. Watching the sea and the sails.

A beautiful day for a sail in the middle of the Atlantic in June

Like many similar undertakings, preparing and getting underway for an offshore passage seems like an endless task in itself. We make lists of tasks that need to be completed. I often realize half way through the day that I am doing things that are necessary but not even on the list! The list seems never complete. Other lists highlight supplies that we need to find locally or order from afar. We often describe the efforts to find unique items locally in foreign ports as “easter egg hunts”. This is especially true for marine parts or specialty hardware items. As the departure date approaches, the window to order parts from afar quickly closes and the “easter egg hunts” become even more urgent.

As departure date approaches, the sense of inertia begins to build. “Will we ever get this boat moving again” becomes the sentiment. Anxiety seems to creep into decision making and conversations become more terse and strained. Are we prepared; will we see bad weather; will we have gear failures. These thoughts contribute to the building anxiety.

Finally, it is time to go. There will be a few things on the list undone. A standing joke among sailors is that there are always people who feel they need to finish just “one more spice rack” before the boat is ready. These people never seem to leave port and if they do, they don’t get very far before “the list” drives them back into port. There will always be tasks on the list to complete. Only safety related and critical repairs should keep the vessel in port.

Raising the anchor breaks the inertia and the passage begins. Anxieties remain for the first few hours until the boat is finally at sea and sails are set and trimmed for the sea conditions. The self-steering is engaged so the boat is sailing herself. It is time to settle into the passage, get in tune with the sea – ride the boat. When conditions are perfect, it is easy to feel like a passenger. The boat and the wind are in command.

Pre-departure anxieties have faded but new concerns become the focus of planning and thinking. Wind strength and direction, sea state, squalls, and currents dominate our thoughts. We have multiple ways to learn about weather. Before departure when we still have wifi, we download forecast data from the internet into our favorite applications. My latest favorite is Predict Wind Offshore. I download new grib files every 12 hours or so and study the wind and gust images for time windows out to 14 days. It is surprising how much the images change every few days. The forecasts are based on complex models developed and maintained by US and European governments. The model accuracy fades quickly too far into the future. This dense, pre-departure data helps determine a departure day but is only available at sea for those with expensive satellite data systems. Our other primary source for both pre-departure and post-departure information is the SSB radio broadcasts with our weather service provider, Chris Parker. Chris provides forecast overviews as well as custom forecasts for a boats position, course, speed, and destination. While at sea we attempt to talk with Chris each evening to obtain a forecast for the immediate and near-term future.

Radio schedules are events that add routine to life offshore. We typically participate in three types of radio nets. There is the Chris Parker weather net in both the morning and evenings. Sometimes we just listen to other boats conversations with Chris. Other times since we are a “subscribing vessel” we speak with Chris Parker directly. We give him our position and he provides a custom forecast for our experience over the next few days. We have found that other cruisers sometimes track our progress via these discussions. Several years ago we made an unscheduled stop in Ile-a-Vache Haiti. A cruiser anchored there welcomed us and said that he had been expecting us based on our radio discussions with Chris!

The other radio nets that we enjoy are position reporting and social nets. These tend to blend together. Both the Ocean Cruising Club and the Seven Seas Cruising Association organize position reporting nets for vessels in the Caribbean and Atlantic waters. During our recent passage between USVI-Bermuda-Azores, we participated in a seasonal net hosted by the SSCA entitled The Transatlantic Safety and Security Net. We checked-in each day at 2130 UTC and reported our position. We enjoyed hearing about the positions of other vessels also crossing the Atlantic with us. We were a group of 9 boats spanning 500 miles of ocean all heading to the Azores. Once we arrived in Horta we were already old friends.

Meals and snacking also adds routine to the passage. The evening meal seems to be the best time for the crew to gather in the cockpit for some together time. The weather often dictates the complexity of the meal. During rough weather meals are more simple and easier to prepare for the cook. During settled weather, cravings tend to inspire us to prepare more elaborate meals. Snacking also becomes an event. For me, I enjoy preparing a special snack for my night watch. It becomes a ritual that I look forward to and helps wake me up and settle into my duties through the night. Everyone aboard seems to have their own version of “comfort food”. It is important to make sure this is part of provisioning.

In this time of low cost satellite-based communication devices, it is possible to keep in touch with loved-ones and friends while offshore. We use a Garmin inReach device as our primary link to folks ashore as well as those afloat. The unlimited texting feature allows us to have casual communication with friends and family while also providing the security of emergency SOS contact. We often banter with friends and family throughout our passages. Folks ashore find the messages that also contain latitude and longitude position as a way to join us vicariously on our passage. We find that many other cruising vessels also have inReach type devices so we also communicate to these friends without wondering if they are in port or at sea because no cell service is required for them to receive our messages.

As the days pass on an offshore passage. The calendar is forgotten, and life is in sync with the rhythms of day and night and of course the weather. Days seem to pass quickly as the routines of the day seem to click off – cooking, eating, napping, reading, sail handling, maintenance, and more napping. The night time watch becomes something to look forward to instead of a burden. Since we do a one-man watch, this is the time for solitude and star gazing.

The sea offers opportunities to experience wildlife like no other setting. On our recent passage from Bermuda to the Azores, we spotted whales on two occasions. We watched for whales spouting, whales basking, and were rewarded with several breaching whales. Birds were also constant companions. Shearwaters are common in mid-ocean. They can be seen during calms as well as gales as if weather is not relevant to their comfort. And then of course there are the dolphins. At sea we frequently are befriended by pods of dolphin who visit us throughout the day. They dash in directly to the boat, swim under our bow for a few minutes and then dash off as quickly as they arrived.

 

 

Sperm whales greet us as we approach Horta

Weather becomes an event to add variety to the days at sea. Brisk wind drives the boat faster and the speed and motion makes cooking, sleeping, and moving about more challenging. It is also exhilarating to spend time in the cockpit enjoying the spectacle of the waves and the way the boat moves in harmony in this new terrain. Settled weather always follows the rough weather. These more settled days are welcome and offer a chance to catch up on sleep, dry out wet clothing and prepare meals in a quiet galley. Trade wind sailing is wonderful for its consistency, but there is also something nice about the variety of rough weather and calms that are found in the higher latitudes. Weather is not to be feared but understood. Without the weather, there would be no journey to experience.

 

Sunset over a calm sea in the middle of the Atlantic

 

Raising the Q flag

 

Boats line the wall in Horta, Azores

Arrival at the end of a successful passage is a triumphant event! It marks the achievement of a unique experience that is becoming increasingly rare in our world of technology, connectivity, and refined comforts. Sailing small boats long distances has never been safer with the equipment, navigation, and communication available to sailors today. The offshore passage, however, is still a unique adventure where a person is able to step into an environment unchanged for thousands of years and experience the sea in much the same way as the sailors from the past. The journey is the experience, not just the destination.

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Providing Shelter for Feathered Friends

March 25, 2018

It is impossible not to feel exposed and vulnerable when sailing on a small boat far from land and sheltered harbors. Mother Nature is clearly in command of the seas and the weather. We venture offshore prepared as best as possible. We gather the most complete forecast available. We avoid sailing in the stormy seasons. Still, we are vulnerable.

One reaction to experiencing this vulnerability is a stronger appreciation for smaller, even more vulnerable creatures that cross our paths while cruising. Protecting God’s creatures seems to be an easy way to build a balance of positive karma and keep us in Mother Nature’s good graces. I find myself even reluctant to kill certain insects. Butterflies and honeybees are top of the list to be protected! Biting flies and cockroaches are not regarded with the same respect, however.

We have been fortunate to have the opportunity to render assistance to several other more interesting creatures in our travels. On one passage from Mexico to Florida, we realized that we were sailing along a migratory route for small birds. Each evening of the four day passage we were visited by small swallows exhausted by their travels. On the first night, a swallow boldly flew in and out of the cabin to the point we lost track of him. To my surprise, I awoke at dawn in my sea berth and found the little bird just waking up in the book shelf beside me. Off he flew well rested to continue on his journey north. On the second night, once again, a small exhausted swallow found a suitable nest on the screen of a partially opened deck hatch.

Swallows looking for a quiet place to spend the night

The big event was on the 3rd night out when a flock of 20 or more swallows swooped into the cockpit just as the sun was setting. Surprisingly, these bold little birds showed no fear of us. They would climb on a finger or wooden handle of a spoon as we tried to move them to safe spots under the dodger. Our attempt to create order for a night at sea did not appear to be successful as the birds continued to flutter around showing particular interest in perching on the wheel that as moving back and forth under control of the autopilot. Finally when darkness fell, the birds seemed to drop into a deep sleep. We were able to scoop them up and place them in a safe place without causing them to stir in the least! As the sun rose at dawn, the spell of sleep was broken. The birds would awake, ruffle their feathers and then take off in groups of 2 and 3 at a time. Sadly, one seemed to linger until we realized that he had expired in the night. The trip must have been too much for his meager reserves. Hopefully, the rest of the flock was refreshed enough from a good night’s sleep to complete their long seasonal journey.

Our feathered friends seem to enjoy the perch on the steering wheel

 

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Cruising Karma – Our Brilliant Green Stowaway

January 31, 2018

On a recent spring passage from Norfolk to Block Island, we discovered a small tree frog that was an unfortunate stow away. He must have snuck aboard when we were tied to the wall of the Great Bridge Lock on the Intracoastal Waterway outside of Norfolk, Virginia. Early on the second morning at sea, I discovered our friend hiding behind a cockpit cushion. It was early in the spring and nights were getting quite cool as we ventured north to Block Island. We made a terrarium out of a large can. We placed a moist sponge and greens in the can to keep the frog comfortable. We were able to feed our guest small flies that also seem to frequent these waters. He seemed to be handling the passage in good health but we needed to get him to a suitable place to release him. We were heading to Maine and it seemed likely to be too cold for a frog from Virginia.

Brilliant Green Stowaway on Cockpit Coaming

When we reached Boston, we stopped for a brief visit with our daughter who volunteered to take over our care for the frog and find a suitable home. Much to our surprise we received a photo of our frog two weeks later in an exhibit in a natural science museum in Western Massachusetts! Karma was preserved!

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Offshore Passage to Bermuda – This Doesn’t Suck

December 18, 2017
This night is surreal.  We are 300 miles from Cape Hatteras and 350 miles from Bermuda in the middle of the ocean.  The moon is nearly full and the ocean is flat calm.  A lazy swell rolls in from the east but on top of this are only ripples from the light breeze.  The light of the moon makes a silvery, undulating streak over the surface of the ocean.  Looking toward the moon, the sky is the color of lead filled with contrasting light gray clouds.  Unfortunately, the sound of the engine disturbs this serene setting.  Above the steady background noise of the clattering diesel is the sound of the wake as Alembic’s bow pushes water aside.  No other sounds can be heard.
We are on our passage to Antigua in the eastern Caribbean.  Faced with an unusual forecast of light to no wind, we are motoring to Bermuda to refuel and then continue our passage south.  Overall, this is not a bad way to make the trip.  Leaving the east coast of the USA, it is necessary to travel east/south-east until reaching the longitude of the islands before dropping south into the trade winds that blow predictably from the east/north-east this time of year.  Sailing east this time of year typically presents a mixed-bag of weather.  Generally, it is necessary to close reach in wet easterlies or romp and roll through confused seas driven by northerly winds. The first obstacle to clear is the Gulf Stream.  We reached the Gulf Stream 24 hours after leaving Hampton, VA.  Even in the light winds that we encountered, the Gulf Stream was a washing machine of confused seas and steep faced swells.  The ocean became more settled as we cleared the axis of the stream and entered the calm seas on the south-east side of the stream 20 hours after entering this powerful ocean current.

Calm Seas Between Norfolk and Bermuda

Apart from the confused sea-state, the other sign post marking the stream is the water temperature.  Leaving the Chesapeake, the ocean temperature was a relatively cool 65 degrees.  Upon entering the gulf stream, the temperature rose first to 75 degrees and hit a high temperature of 78 degrees.  Upon exiting the stream, the warmer waters remain near the same temperature.  We have seen the last of cool nights for the foreseeable future.  In the words of a friend – “this doesn’t suck”.
Our biggest concern with this leg of the trip is having enough fuel to get us to Bermuda since there is no wind to push us along.  The total distance from Hampton to Bermuda is approximately 650 miles.  Alembic carries 100 gallons of diesel in fuel tanks and we have 20 gallons on deck in 4 Gerry cans.  All told, our range is close to 800 miles if we manage our fuel closely.  As I complete this paragraph at about 5:30 in the morning, the sun is rising and the wind is just beginning to stir.

Dawn on Passage to Bermuda

By 5:30 we are sailing along at an easy pace.  Throughout the day the wind increases until is blowing 18 to 23 knots.  We enjoy our first sustained period of sailing on this passage.  We also get a chance to use the Hydrovane self-steering auto pilot.  The Hydrovane is a silent helmsman who needs no electricity to keep him on task.  Unfortunately, the wind only lasts about 14 hours and then we are once again becalmed and turn on the motor to keep us moving to Bermuda.
We arrive in beautiful St George Harbor at approximately 4:30 in the afternoon, 4 1/2 days after leaving Hampton, VA.  The arrival at Bermuda is friendly and efficient as Bermuda Radio contacts every boat approaching the island and coordinates their safe arrival.  We are directed to the small but neat customs dock, tie up Alembic and complete the clearance procedures within 45 min.  We anchor, launch the dinghy and taste our first Dark and Stormy at the White Horse Pub as the sun sets!

St George Harbor Bermuda

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Schooners Everywhere! Just Another Day on Penobscot Bay…

October 11, 2017

This past August we left Belfast, Maine for a short sail to Carver’s Harbor on Vinalhaven. The trip was about 20 miles down Penobscot bay past the ports of Camden and Rockland. Slowly we realized that in every direction we looked we saw another schooner under sail. Most seemed to be heading from the mainland ports toward the many islands and anchorages of one of Maine’s best cruising grounds.

 

Isaac H Evans flying a Canadian courtesy flag

Stephan Taber

There are more than a dozen schooners in the Windjammer Fleet sailing out of Camden and Rockland on multi-day adventure cruises. The vessels vary in age, accommodations, and amenities. The oldest in the fleet is the Lewis R French. Launched in 1871, the French is a National Historic Landmark. Another amazing member of the fleet is the Ladona. Although the Ladona was launched in 1922, she recently went through a total restoration requiring over 2 years to complete. She now has some of the most attractive cabins found in a boat of this type.

Chasing one down Vinalhaven Reach

Another view of the Stephan Taber

The Windjammer charter fleet is not the only place to find these beautiful schooners still hard at work. A number of capable ships are being used as educational venues. While in Belfast we anchored beside the Spirit of South Carolina a school ship out of Charleston, SC. Another school ship, the Corwith Cramer was undergoing a refit in the Belfast Front Street Shipyard.

The schooners of the Maine are certainly a special part of Maine cruising.  I am not sure there is any place else in the country where so many of these vessels are hard at work.  These vessels are not museum exhibits.  They are sailing hard and earning their keep!

Most likely the Lewis R French

Possibly a privately owned schooner – they are everywhere

in Lifestyle

The Gulf of Maine – A Happening Place

September 21, 2017
We recently had the pleasure of crossing the Gulf of Maine in Alembic with a friend Sarah, an experienced biologist.  Sarah kept us alert to wildlife sightings and also shared a number of interesting facts about this unique body of water.  The Gulf of Maine is about 36000 square miles bounded to north by Nova Scotia and to the south by Cape Cod.  There are several significant banks in the Gulf including Georges Bank and Stellwagen Bank.  The Gulf of Maine is home to over 3000 marine species and countless species of birds (Sarah’s specialty).  One special aspect of the Gulf’s banks that draws attention is the frequency of whale sightings.  We were not to be disappointed!
In Sarah’s words, the Gulf of Maine is a happening place.  Marine creatures and wildlife are drawn to the Gulf of Maine because of the cool waters stirred by the warm Gulf Stream from the south and cool Labrador Current from the north.  These currents transport an abundance of marine life from the top to the bottom of the food chain.  Giant Humpback whales feed on tiny plankton, krill and tiny fish.  Numerous fish species from large sharks and ocean sunfish to smaller haddock and herring abound.
Birds including shearwaters, gulls, and terns are ever-present.  Many of these bird species nest in the summer on the offshore rocky islands off the Maine coast.  For the rest of the year they remain in open ocean habitats migrating thousands of miles.  Sarah explained that new technology enables biologists to attach tiny satellite transmitters to migratory birds providing new data on the traveling habits of these special creatures.  A common tern can migrate hundreds of miles in a few short days reaching speeds of 30 MPH!
Our favorite sightings of the trip included an ocean sunfish.  These giant fish weigh thousands of pounds and wallow on the surface showing a single shark like dorsal fin that flops from side to side.  We spotted, countless numbers of shearwaters, terns, and gulls.  Sarah gave a running description of each species and her favorite characteristics about each of these cherished creatures. Finally, for marine mammals we saw porpoise, seals, and best of all WHALES!  For at least an hour crossing Stellwagen bank we saw countless spouts, fins, backs, and tails.  And best of all, while all three of us were watching one particular spot on the horizon a humpback breached completely out of the water.  We were able to see the entire body airborne for a split second before crashing into the water with an explosion of spray!
The Gulf of Maine is truly a unique place that many people take for granted.  It is also a place experiencing rapid change.  The Gulf of Maine is warming faster than 99% of all other ocean waters.  Traditional species like Cod and Haddock are retreating north to cooler environments.  Lobster are still abundant but researchers forecast that lobster will migrate away from warming inshore waters and move to deeper habitats or to colder climates to the north.  Other species like squid and new crab species will become more abundant.  Hopefully, in spite of all this change, the Gulf of Maine will remain a thriving marine ecosystem.  Only time will tell.  Enjoy it now while you still can!
in Lifestyle

Western Caribbean Short Cruise

September 14, 2017
For US East Coast cruisers looking to extend their cruising experience beyond the Bahamas, the Western Caribbean short cruise offers an adventurous alternative to the more common Eastern Caribbean destinations such as the BVI and Windward Islands. My version of the “Short Cruise” includes Bahamas, Cayman Islands, Honduran Bay Islands, Belize and Mexico.  For those with a bit more time, Cuba and Jamaica are also convenient to this route.  One of the greatest aspects of the Short Cruise is that most of the sailing route takes advantage of favorable winds and currents.  This is a key difference between this Western Caribbean route vs the “Thorny Path” of traveling from the Bahamas to the BVI via Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico.
 
 
During the 2016/2017 season we were eager to return to the Western Caribbean but we were looking for an itinerary that was a bit less demanding than the prior year because we also planned to spend some time off the boat in January and February to catchup on some skiing at our home in Maine.  The Western Caribbean short cruise seemed like the right balance.  The following voyage description is a compilation of our experience along with advice and information that we gathered in our Western Caribbean travels.
 
 
Georgetown Bahamas with its proximity to the Windward Passage offers a good starting point for the Western Caribbean.  Skipper and crew wait for a period of light winds from the north east and steer a course directly for the western end of Great Inagua Island.  Exiting Georgetown via Hog Key Cut to the south east of Georgetown is a neat little adventure.  Vessels with 6′ draft or less can use this short cut.  Alternatively, you may sail around the North end of Long Island and then steer south east to the same waypoint at the Western End of Great Inagua.  We did not make landfall on Great Inagua but used this as a waypoint before steering toward the Windward Passage just east of Cuba.  We have known boats that stopped at Matthew Town on Great Inagua.  It is possible to clear out with Bahama customs and immigration at Matthew Town.
 

Route from Georgetown Bahamas to Grand Cayman

 
 
Once clearing the south east corner of Cuba, the passage to Grand Cayman is an easy down wind run in the prevailing trade winds.  For much of this leg of the trip, you glide along the south Coast of Cuba approximately 5 to 10 miles offshore.  If someone wanted to enjoy a stop in Cuba, Santiago Cuba is an official point of entry and an easy diversion from the rhumb line to Grand Cayman.  Alternatively, if someone wanted to make a stop in Jamaica, Port Antonio or Montego Bay are just 60 miles South of the course to Cayman Islands.  Our passage from Georgetown Bahamas direct to George Town Grand Cayman took 5 days.  For much of the passage we were on a very broad reach or sailing wing and wing.  For our passage, the winds were less than 15 knots with seas were less than 1 meter for most of the trip.
 
 
Grand Cayman is a wonderful island to visit.  Although the island has a bustling cruise ship port and numerous resort hotels, it remains quite accommodating to cruisers.  Clearing customs is easy at the port of George Town.  The offices are located right on the waterfront and an officer will guide you to the different stops – Immigration, Customs, and Port Authority.  There are free moorings right at the port of George Town and a secure dinghy dock.  A wonderful Kirklands grocery store is walking distance from the dinghy dock.
 
 
For boats drawing 7′ or less, North Sound offers settled anchorages and a variety of places to visit.  One of the best all around anchorages is in Governor’s Creek.  The entrance is easy and we went in and out several times never seeing less than 8′ of water.  We preferred to anchor just inside near the Cayman Islands Yacht Club.  From here it is an easy dinghy ride up a canal to the back side of 7 mile beach or ashore to the restaurants near the Yacht Club.  We also took a couple of trips with Alembic through the canals to a wonderful quiet basin that is an easy walk to a major discount grocery store.  For an experience that is truly unique in the Western Caribbean, we tied up at the Camana Bay Yacht Basin.  The cost was less than a mooring on the US east coast.  Camana Bay is much like Coconut Grove with shopping, restaurants, a movie theater, and the best gelato in the Caribbean.  For a polar opposite experience, we traveled across North Sound to the seclusion of the Kaibo anchorage and enjoyed snorkeling off Rum Point.
 

Getting close with nature at Stingray City – Grand Cayman

Grand Cayman’s North Sound is a compact diverse cruising ground for those drawing <7′

Camana Bay – not your typical western caribbean experience

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
After clearing out of the Cayman Islands you again sail down wind for 2 1/2 days and will find yourself off Guanaja, 25 miles NE of Roatan.  Guanaja is a great place to start your Bay Island experience and an easy destination to enjoy.  A unique aspect of the place is that the majority of the population lives on the small island that sits 1 mile south of the main island.  Over 4000 people live on this small island in the town of Bonacca.  Helpful ambassadors will meet you at the dinghy dock and guide you through the immigration and customs process.  Fees are minimal and the authorities are helpful and pleasant.  The ambassadors are happy to receive a $10 tip for their services.  After clearing in, enjoying a cold beer in one of the small bars, shopping, and exploring the busy small town of Bonacca you will want to move over to El Bight Bay to anchor among the other cruisers and enjoy this tranquil setting.  Ashore there is a delightful walk to several different restaurants as well as an adventurous hike to the peak of the island.  A short dinghy ride from the anchorage are wonderful reefs for snorkeling and fishing.
 

Guanaja Anchorage – an international cruising fleet

 
 
Roatan is an easy day sail down wind from Guanaja.  The Frenchman’s Cay area offers both an excellent anchorage behind the reef as well as a welcoming marina.  From here it is an easy walk or short cab ride to a modern grocery store for provisioning.  It is also an easy place to arrange transportation to other areas of the island.  Roatan can be a bit hectic.  After a short visit here, the mellow vibe of Utila is a short day sail further west.  Utila has a wonderful anchorage right off the main village which is an eclectic destination for divers and young travelers.  It is an excellent place to find Whale Sharks during the season and several reefs are a short dinghy ride from the anchorage.  Restaurants are inexpensive and it is a handy place to provision especially for beer and wine before traveling to Belize.  Don’t miss the authentic French crepes from the small creperie on the Main Street.  Clearing out of immigration and customs is also very easy to complete in Utila.
 
From Utila, the offshore Belizian atoll of Glover’s Reef is just 60 miles to the Northwest.  We chose to leave Utila at about 10:00 in the evening and sail over night arriving at Glover’s Reef in the morning with the sun high enough to navigate the entrance to the atoll.  Leaving the anchorage at Utila in the dark can be a bit edgy.  If you save an incoming track on your chart plotter, following this track on departure can give you some peace of mind.  The channel into Glover’s Reef is easily followed in good light.  The entrance on the south end of the atoll is wide and calm and a wonderful anchorage lies just inside this southern entrance through the reef.  This anchorage offers a delightful sense of  all Belize cruising has to offer.  The reefs are healthy and are teaming with fish of many species.  Spear fishing is allowed on the southern edge of the reef, while the reefs in the conservation zone offer spectacular viewing.
 
 
From Glover’s it is best to sail directly to Placentia to complete the clearance process.  Clearing into Belize at Placentia is actually an enjoyable adventure.  Captain and crew pack up the ship’s papers and passports and walk on through town to the Hokey Pokey water taxi to Mango Creek.  Upon landing at Mango Creek, hop into any taxi and the driver will transport and direct you through the different offices you need to visit in Big Creek including: Immigration, Agriculture, Port Officer, and Customs.  Although, there may be a short wait at one or two of these stops, the officials are always courteous and friendly.  While you are in Mango Creek, ask the taxi driver to take you to one of the local restaurants for breakfast or lunch.  The last time I cleared into Belize, I took the first boat in the morning from Placentia and had time for breakfast before the immigration office opened.  I had a wonderful breakfast in a small local place.  Eggs fresh from the chicken coop out back and fried jack, a Belizean specialty.
 
After completing clearance and provisioning in Placentia, you are off to the many Cays along the barrier reef that runs the length of Belize.  In total, we have spent over 10 weeks cruising Belize and there are still numerous Cays and anchorages that we have not explored!  If necessary, you can easily make it from Placentia to Belize City in one week with a short sail each day and a fresh anchorage each night. We find Belize is a wonderful place to host guests.  You can either meet them in Placentia or Belize City and share a wonderful week of unique sailing, snorkeling, and dining.  We have spent time in the BVI as well as Belize.  Our experience is that Belize tops the BVI as a destination for sailing in sheltered waters surrounded by amazing reefs and other natural wonders.  There are also plenty of beach bars to enjoy sundowners or an occasional meal ashore.
 

Belize – best snorkeling in the Caribbean

 
 
Once your time in Belize comes to an end, it is time to start heading north to Mexico or the USA.  As for Mexico, El Cid marina in Puerto Morelos or Isla Mujeres are both an easy overnight sail.  Once you near Cozumel, the favorable Yucatan current kicks in at nearly 2 knots.  With prevailing easterlies trades, this sail is typically an exhilarating close reach.  Mexico offers a great place to breakup the trip back to the USA.  Clearing in and out, however, can be a bit tedious.  Our experience is that it is worth using an agent.  They are well worth the $50 cost for this service.
 
 
Whether leaving directly from Belize or from Mexico, the trip back to Florida will be the toughest part of the overall trip.  With the right weather, heading straight to Key West or the Dry Tortugas is the preferred route.  One year we made the trip from Belize City to the Dry Tortugas in just over 72 hours traveling just below a front that pushed out the prevailing easterly trades.  Another year, we left Isla Mujeres and sailed for southwest Florida close hauled in settled easterlies.  We made our landfall in Fort Meyers after 3 and a half days on a single tack.  Both of these passages were good for building our experience with sailing close to the wind and managing currents that flowed in variable directions along the passage.
 
 
Your return to USA will most likely close the loop of your western Caribbean short cruise.  You will have visited a number of new cruising destinations that will expand your horizons beyond the more commonly cruised waters of the Bahamas and Lesser Antilles.  You will also have logged over 2000 nautical miles and built your confidence and experience for other cruising adventures.

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