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in Tech Topics

220V Circuit for European Cruising

November 18, 2018
During our planning for European cruising aboard Alembic our Whitby 42 ketch, we researched extensively the best solution for adapting to the 220V power standard that we would find in Europe.  After looking into the various  options for step down transformers, we decided to simply add a dedicated 220V shore power service.  Alembic was built in the USA in 1981 and has the typical 110V 30 amp AC service of a cruising sailboat.  We have interior outlets and just a couple of AC appliances.  Specifically, we have a 2000W charger/inverter and a water heater that is 1500W AC or heated from engine coolant.  All of our other AC requirements like computer charging is supported by a small 150W 12V to 110V inverter.  With the prospect of leaving the boat in the water unattended for the European winter, we felt that it would be important to have a reliable source of electric heating and a dehumidifier.  The 220V dedicated circuit was recommended by other boats from the USA as a low budget and reliable approach to support these appliances.
The first element of the 220V shore power circuit was the external connector.  The shore power receptacle that we found in stock at the chandlery in France was designed for exterior installation but was not the typical flush-mounted receptacle that is more common in the USA.  Given that we may remove the circuit at some point in the future, this exterior mounted receptacle seemed like a good choice because it also did not require a 2” hole to be cut in the cabin side.  We mounted the receptacle inside a cubby hole in the cockpit coaming.  The cable then went down into the interior of the boat through a water-proof cable gland.  The other advantage to this more simple receptacle is that it uses a standard 220V/16A power cord typical of RV’s.  The shore power cord was approx 50 euro and the receptacle was approx 45 euro.  A flush-mounted receptacle and shore power cord with locking ring connector would have been in excess of 200 euro.

220V 16A shore power cord receptacle mounted in cockpit coaming

 

220V 16A receptacle mounted in cockpit coaming with cable running through to interior

The next element of the circuit was to add a breaker panel and breakers.  It turns out that these components are common for residential use in Europe.  We found everything we needed at a “Do it Yourself” hardware store in Belgium. A circuit of this nature uses a 30mA differential current breaker combined with a 16A overload protection breaker.  The differential current breaker eliminates the need for a GFI receptacle.  As a side note, the differential current breakers are becoming the standard for new construction in the USA.

Breaker panel installed in electrical locker

For the final element we needed to add receptacle inside the boat.  Thinking again that the circuit may be a temporary installation, we chose to use a simple pig-tail style receptacle instead of a wall mounted receptacle.  This pig tail extends out through a locker in the main cabin.  When not in use, it is simply tucked away.  Into this pig tail receptacle we plugged a power strip for connecting AC appliances.

220V 16A receptacle on pigtail

As for 220V appliances, so far we have purchased an oil-filled radiator heater.  This will be set on the lowest setting to keep the cabin above freezing throughout the winter.  We also purchased a Seaco dehumidifier to control the dampness inside the boat.  Finally, we purchased a simple “smart” battery charger at an auto parts store to keep the batteries charged while living dockside for extended periods.

Oil filled radiator dockside cabin heater safe winter heating

The complete investment for the 220V circuit and appliances has been less than 250 euro.  An alternative approach would have been to install a step down transformer to continue to use the existing 110V circuitry.  Marine step-down transformers are nearly $1000 and require a fair amount of space for installation.  Alternatively, some people use an inexpensive outdoor power tool transformer (yellow plastic box) that can be purchased for less than $100.  This type of transformer would have been left on the dock or on the side-deck where it would have interfaced with a standard shore power cord.  We were not confident that this type of installation would be robust enough to handle 5 months of winter weather and could have been a fire hazard.  Given these less desirable alternatives, we are happy with our 220V AC conversion.
in Tech Topics

Cabin Heater – Our Espar is a Champ

July 12, 2018

Our Whitby 42 came with an Espar D4 Airtronic cabin heater that was installed by a previous owner.  A reliable and easy to operate heater is a great thing to have when sailing in high latitudes and for stretching the season into the colder months.  During the time we have owned our boat, we have sailed extensively in Maine, including living aboard one winter in Portland, Maine.  We have literally used the heater for thousands of hours during this time.  We have also enjoyed using the heater to take the morning chill out of the boat when traveling south in the fall through the Chesapeake and mid-Atlantic States. One season, the temperature landed in the mid-thirties in Beaufort, NC in late October!  Unlike most of the boats in the anchorage, we were cozy aboard with the Espar.  The other remarkable thing about a quick and easy cabin heater is that it is a great way to chase away the dampness in foggy and rainy anchorages.

Espar installed on engine room bulkhead

The Espar has proven to be completely reliable.   During the winter we lived aboard in Maine, the only error code we ever experienced with the unit was a warning advising preventative maintenance after 3600 hours of operation.  In fact, we did run the Espar nearly continuously from mid-November to early April.  During the coldest weather, we supplemented the Espar with a 1500 watt electric space heater.  Heating a boat during winter is a detailed discussion in itself.  In general, it is difficult to heat exclusively with electric given that typical boats have only 30 amp service.  Two 1500 watt space heaters will max out the electrical service while the Espar D4 unit is capable of 3000+ watts using DC power.  Also, electric space heaters are only possible on shore power.  The Espar uses very little DC electrical power so it is practical to run while underway or at anchor.

In our experience, the fuel consumption of the Espar is also reasonable.  The specifications state the unit will consume approximately 1.5 gallons of diesel per hour when operating on a medium setting equivalent to 2000 watts of output.  The consumption goes up to 2.4 gallons per hour when operating on a high setting equivalent to 3000 watts.  In practice, the consumption if far less than these values because the burner does not run continuously.  Although, I did not keep detailed records of fuel consumption during our winter aboard, I do remember that we went from November 1 to the end of January consuming only 100 gallons of diesel from our onboard tanks.

Espar D4 Airtronic Specs

After a winter in the Caribbean, we sailed across the Atlantic to the Azores headed for Ireland and England.  Knowing that damp and cold anchorages would be waiting for us in this region, I decided that it was time to tune up the Espar.  Prior to leaving the States, I contacted the Espar parts dealer in Michigan (www.esparparts.com) to ask what I should do to proactively service the heater.  The technician recommended replacing the glow plug and screen.  I purchased these parts and tossed them into ships stores.

While in the Azores, I finally got around to servicing the unit.  On my unit, removing the glow plug was easy.  The hardest part is removing the unit to access the service panel.  Once this is done, a single allen head screw holds the service panel in place.  Once this is removed the glow plug is clearly accessible.  You simply torque it out of the unit with a 19mm socket.  The screen was stuck in place with accumulated carbon residue but since I was removing and scrapping the part, I was able to pry it loose with a screw driver and pull it our with needle nose pliers.  Installing the new components was simple.  The screen simply pushed in place and the new glow plug threaded in easily.

Espar D4 Airtronic unit with service panel exposed

 

Glow plug accessible under service panel

 

Old glow plug and screen

 

New screen in place

 

Glow plug installation

I re-installed and test ran the unit with no issues.  Alembic is now ready to head to colder climates.

in Lifestyle, Tech Topics

Atlantic Crossing

June 26, 2018

Day four of an offshore passage seems to be the day when time and distance finally drift to the background. The journey becomes the focus not the landfall. During the first few days of a passage, I am constantly thinking about boat speed, distance covered, and the number of days still required to achieve the destination. This obsession takes me away from the enjoyment of the activities and observations of the passage itself. By the fourth day of a passage, the body has acclimated to the motion of the sea. Sleep patterns have been established, adjusting to the disruption of the three hour night watch that breaks into the peace of uninterrupted sleep that we enjoy while in port. I am finally settling into the journey and becoming reflective of the present. I am living in the moment. Listening to the whispers of the boat in harmony with the environment. Watching the sea and the sails.

A beautiful day for a sail in the middle of the Atlantic in June

Like many similar undertakings, preparing and getting underway for an offshore passage seems like an endless task in itself. We make lists of tasks that need to be completed. I often realize half way through the day that I am doing things that are necessary but not even on the list! The list seems never complete. Other lists highlight supplies that we need to find locally or order from afar. We often describe the efforts to find unique items locally in foreign ports as “easter egg hunts”. This is especially true for marine parts or specialty hardware items. As the departure date approaches, the window to order parts from afar quickly closes and the “easter egg hunts” become even more urgent.

As departure date approaches, the sense of inertia begins to build. “Will we ever get this boat moving again” becomes the sentiment. Anxiety seems to creep into decision making and conversations become more terse and strained. Are we prepared; will we see bad weather; will we have gear failures. These thoughts contribute to the building anxiety.

Finally, it is time to go. There will be a few things on the list undone. A standing joke among sailors is that there are always people who feel they need to finish just “one more spice rack” before the boat is ready. These people never seem to leave port and if they do, they don’t get very far before “the list” drives them back into port. There will always be tasks on the list to complete. Only safety related and critical repairs should keep the vessel in port.

Raising the anchor breaks the inertia and the passage begins. Anxieties remain for the first few hours until the boat is finally at sea and sails are set and trimmed for the sea conditions. The self-steering is engaged so the boat is sailing herself. It is time to settle into the passage, get in tune with the sea – ride the boat. When conditions are perfect, it is easy to feel like a passenger. The boat and the wind are in command.

Pre-departure anxieties have faded but new concerns become the focus of planning and thinking. Wind strength and direction, sea state, squalls, and currents dominate our thoughts. We have multiple ways to learn about weather. Before departure when we still have wifi, we download forecast data from the internet into our favorite applications. My latest favorite is Predict Wind Offshore. I download new grib files every 12 hours or so and study the wind and gust images for time windows out to 14 days. It is surprising how much the images change every few days. The forecasts are based on complex models developed and maintained by US and European governments. The model accuracy fades quickly too far into the future. This dense, pre-departure data helps determine a departure day but is only available at sea for those with expensive satellite data systems. Our other primary source for both pre-departure and post-departure information is the SSB radio broadcasts with our weather service provider, Chris Parker. Chris provides forecast overviews as well as custom forecasts for a boats position, course, speed, and destination. While at sea we attempt to talk with Chris each evening to obtain a forecast for the immediate and near-term future.

Radio schedules are events that add routine to life offshore. We typically participate in three types of radio nets. There is the Chris Parker weather net in both the morning and evenings. Sometimes we just listen to other boats conversations with Chris. Other times since we are a “subscribing vessel” we speak with Chris Parker directly. We give him our position and he provides a custom forecast for our experience over the next few days. We have found that other cruisers sometimes track our progress via these discussions. Several years ago we made an unscheduled stop in Ile-a-Vache Haiti. A cruiser anchored there welcomed us and said that he had been expecting us based on our radio discussions with Chris!

The other radio nets that we enjoy are position reporting and social nets. These tend to blend together. Both the Ocean Cruising Club and the Seven Seas Cruising Association organize position reporting nets for vessels in the Caribbean and Atlantic waters. During our recent passage between USVI-Bermuda-Azores, we participated in a seasonal net hosted by the SSCA entitled The Transatlantic Safety and Security Net. We checked-in each day at 2130 UTC and reported our position. We enjoyed hearing about the positions of other vessels also crossing the Atlantic with us. We were a group of 9 boats spanning 500 miles of ocean all heading to the Azores. Once we arrived in Horta we were already old friends.

Meals and snacking also adds routine to the passage. The evening meal seems to be the best time for the crew to gather in the cockpit for some together time. The weather often dictates the complexity of the meal. During rough weather meals are more simple and easier to prepare for the cook. During settled weather, cravings tend to inspire us to prepare more elaborate meals. Snacking also becomes an event. For me, I enjoy preparing a special snack for my night watch. It becomes a ritual that I look forward to and helps wake me up and settle into my duties through the night. Everyone aboard seems to have their own version of “comfort food”. It is important to make sure this is part of provisioning.

In this time of low cost satellite-based communication devices, it is possible to keep in touch with loved-ones and friends while offshore. We use a Garmin inReach device as our primary link to folks ashore as well as those afloat. The unlimited texting feature allows us to have casual communication with friends and family while also providing the security of emergency SOS contact. We often banter with friends and family throughout our passages. Folks ashore find the messages that also contain latitude and longitude position as a way to join us vicariously on our passage. We find that many other cruising vessels also have inReach type devices so we also communicate to these friends without wondering if they are in port or at sea because no cell service is required for them to receive our messages.

As the days pass on an offshore passage. The calendar is forgotten, and life is in sync with the rhythms of day and night and of course the weather. Days seem to pass quickly as the routines of the day seem to click off – cooking, eating, napping, reading, sail handling, maintenance, and more napping. The night time watch becomes something to look forward to instead of a burden. Since we do a one-man watch, this is the time for solitude and star gazing.

The sea offers opportunities to experience wildlife like no other setting. On our recent passage from Bermuda to the Azores, we spotted whales on two occasions. We watched for whales spouting, whales basking, and were rewarded with several breaching whales. Birds were also constant companions. Shearwaters are common in mid-ocean. They can be seen during calms as well as gales as if weather is not relevant to their comfort. And then of course there are the dolphins. At sea we frequently are befriended by pods of dolphin who visit us throughout the day. They dash in directly to the boat, swim under our bow for a few minutes and then dash off as quickly as they arrived.

 

 

Sperm whales greet us as we approach Horta

Weather becomes an event to add variety to the days at sea. Brisk wind drives the boat faster and the speed and motion makes cooking, sleeping, and moving about more challenging. It is also exhilarating to spend time in the cockpit enjoying the spectacle of the waves and the way the boat moves in harmony in this new terrain. Settled weather always follows the rough weather. These more settled days are welcome and offer a chance to catch up on sleep, dry out wet clothing and prepare meals in a quiet galley. Trade wind sailing is wonderful for its consistency, but there is also something nice about the variety of rough weather and calms that are found in the higher latitudes. Weather is not to be feared but understood. Without the weather, there would be no journey to experience.

 

Sunset over a calm sea in the middle of the Atlantic

 

Raising the Q flag

 

Boats line the wall in Horta, Azores

Arrival at the end of a successful passage is a triumphant event! It marks the achievement of a unique experience that is becoming increasingly rare in our world of technology, connectivity, and refined comforts. Sailing small boats long distances has never been safer with the equipment, navigation, and communication available to sailors today. The offshore passage, however, is still a unique adventure where a person is able to step into an environment unchanged for thousands of years and experience the sea in much the same way as the sailors from the past. The journey is the experience, not just the destination.

in Tech Topics

Mast Chocks – Traditional vs Technical

May 6, 2018

Like many construction features on a sailboat, there is more than one way to support a keel stepped mast at the deck collar and seal this opening from rain or seawater. In the past 6 months we have chocked our mast 2 different times with two different techniques. First we used the more traditional approach using hardwood wedges for chocking and a mast boot to seal out water. Most recently we used the Spartite polymer “cast in place” mast chock and sealing ring.

Our boat is a 1981 Whitby 42 center cockpit ketch. The main mast is keel stepped passing through a robust fiberglass deck collar on the cabin top. We sailed over 10,000 miles with the hardwood wedges that were in place when we purchased the boat. They were likely quite old as many of them were splintered on the ends from being hammered into place over many years of mast installation and removal. Since the boat was based in Maine, this was done each winter for storage on the hard.

Last Spring, near the end of a particularly lively 3 day passage from Belize to Florida, I noticed a creaking noise coming from the area of the mast collar. Unfortunately, our mast passes through the deck into a box shielding the mast from the interior. A quick inspection of the mast chocks is not possible because the top of the chocks are covered by a mast boot that is not easily removed and the bottom side is inside the mast box. There is a floor to ceiling panel of the mast box that can be opened by removing about a dozen screws. To better troubleshoot the creaking sound at the mast, I opened this panel and discovered that one of the hardwood wedge mast chocks had fallen through the opening allowing all the other chocks to loosen and the mast was beginning to move within the mast collar. As you can imagine, this condition could be particularly dicey on a long offshore passage. As a quick remedy, I reinstalled the mast chock that had fallen out of place and tightened all the chocks with a rubber mallet. I re-used the mast boot that was in place but noted that the water tightness was likely compromised.

Before departing Maine in the Fall of 2017 for our trip to the Eastern Caribbean, I rebuilt the mast chock to assure that it would be robust for our planned offshore passage. I was able to purchase a half dozen new hardwood wedges from the Landing Wooden Boat School in Rockland, Maine. I also needed to replace the sealing material used for the mast boot. When we purchased the boat, the mast boot was a two piece construction. The inner layer was a soft, sticky black membrane material similar to ice and water shield used in home construction. This material was reusable to a degree but after years of manipulation, had developed a few holes. This layer was wrapped around the mast and secured top and bottom with giant hose clamps. The outer layer was a vinyl covering that wrapped around the mast and deck collar and was closed with Velcro. I could not find the exact membrane material but I realized from my construction experience that Vicor window and door flashing was very similar and likely a fraction of the cost.

Traditional wood wedges supporting the mast

Grace Vicor window flashing makes a great sealing barrier for a mast boot. A white vinyl boot covers this for aesthetics.

With the new materials in hand, I disassembled the mast chock in Rockland Harbor and reassembled with the new wedges and sealing material. Overall, I was pleased with the outcome but not fully convinced all our problems would be solved. The new sealing material looked great so I was not concerned with leaks. The bigger issue with the wedges I used is that they could still fall down into the deck collar if they loosened up over time. A better arrangement with wooden mast chocks is to cut them in a way that the top of the wedge has a lip that will stop the wedge from falling too far down into the collar. This requires custom cutting each wedge after measuring the gap between the mast and collar. The wedge must be cut so that it wedges in firmly without bottoming out on the lip at the head of the chock. I did not have the time or the resources to custom cut wedges so I buttoned up the project with the less than optimal wedges and headed south.

At the Annapolis boat show, I revisited the project by chatting with the many riggers with booths at the boat show. After several good discussions I decided that a Spartite mast chock was a great alternative to traditional wooden chocking. The Spartite Mast Wedge Replacement System comes in two sizes, small and large. For our mast, I purchased the large kit. I did not get a chance to install the Spartite mast chock before heading south, so the kit stayed in storage until we found a good spot to complete the project. One of the things recommended for installation is that you have a calm anchorage so that the mast is not swinging with wakes and surge. We found just the spot in the lagoon in St Martin.

The first step in the process is to remove all of the existing chocks. I was worried that my mast might move within the deck collar when I did this. I was pleasantly surprised that my mast moved less than 2mm when I removed all of the chocks. I left all the rigging tight in spite of the recommendation in the instructions to loosen rigging.

The Spartite kit includes all items required to complete the project except for standard masking tape. The Spartite mast chock is cast in place using a 2 part polymer compound. To create the form to pour the liquid into, you need to first create a dam within the deck collar to form the bottom of the chock. At the top you also create a circular form of masking tape to create the top lip of the chock. The Spartite kit includes foam insulation and modeling clay to pack between the mast and the deck collar to form the bottom dam. Standard 2” masking tape is used for the top form. Once the forms are complete a very important step is to apply the Vasaline supplied to the inside of the deck collar. The Vasaline is used as a mold release so that the polyurethane chock does not bond to the inside of the deck collar. It is absolutely necessary to have this mold release so that when the mast is removed at a later date, the polymer chock comes out of the deck collar. As an option, it is also recommended to coat the mast so that the polymer chock may be slide up the mast after the mast is removed. Once the forms are in place and the Vasaline applied, the last step is easy. The kit includes 2 mixing buckets and pre-measured cans of the 2 part polyurethane compound. You simply mix the two parts together and then pour the liquid into the form around the mast. The material hardens quickly and within a few hours it is firm although the center remains curing for a couple of days. The instructions recommend not sailing for a couple of days to assure the material is fully hardened.

Based on our experience, we would strongly recommend the Spartite solution. It is simple to complete and the result is a mast chock that will not loosen in rough conditions. It is also completely watertight. No mast boot is required for sealing purposes. We fabricated a canvas mast boot for cosmetic purposes.

Masking tape creates the top of the form with modeling clay sealing the bottom

 

Modeling clay between deck collar and mast creates a seal so that polymer can be poured in from above

Cured polymer creates a one piece solid mast support replacing wedges

in Tech Topics

Standup Paddle Board Storage Solution

September 8, 2017
A common item stored on boats these days is the Standup Paddle Board or SUP.  They are a wonderful piece of equipment to have aboard and are generally easier to stow and transport than kayaks.  I like to use the SUP for exercise or just to get away from the boat and enjoy the  edges of the anchorage.  Exercise on boats is an entire topic in itself but I will put in a quick plug for the SUP.  I am one of those people that gets antsy if I do not get a workout.  Whenever I can, I love to go for a long swim.  Swimming is often times not possible if the water is too cold or polluted or if the anchorage is too busy with other boats.  The SUP is often the most accessible way for me to get some exercise.  It is also a great way to explore the edges of the anchorage.  It is much quieter than the dinghy and standing above the surface gives a different view of the shallows.  I have had many a wonderful encounter with wildlife from this vantage point.
Once I realized how much I enjoyed having the SUP aboard our boat, I spent quite a bit of time sorting out the best way to store the SUP on deck.  What I came up with was a simple set of storage hooks and straps that I put together from parts that I found in a HomeDepot.  HomeDepot has a decent selection of metal shapes in a bin in the Hardware Aisle.  I purchased a piece of aluminum flat bar measuring 1”x1/8” x 3ft.  I cut the flat bar with a hacksaw and bent the flat bar in a vise that I found in the community shop area at Marathon City Marina.  The vertical portion of the storage hooks measure about 7” and the horizontal portion measures about 4”.  My wife stitched together a small piece of vinyl to provide a bit of protection from the hard edges of the aluminum.  Finally, I attached the storage hooks to the bases of my lower shrouds.  The SUP rests on the storage hooks and straps go around the shrouds to hold the SUP snug against the rigging.  My shrouds have wood rollers which help prevent the rigging wire from chafing the surface of the SUP.

The SUP storage hook was put together from readily available materials

The storage solution that I put together offers a couple of key features that I think are essential.  First, the SUP is up off the deck.  When I wash anchor mud down the side deck, it does not collect under and around the SUP like it would if the SUP were resting on the deck.  Secondly, that SUP is attached to the rigging vs the lifeline stanchions.  I see SUPs lashed to stanchions on many boats.  The stanchions are not strong enough to handle the potential load from a big sea crashing into a SUP lashed to this structure.  Standing rigging is much stronger.  We have transported our SUP on our boat for over 12,000 miles including many offshore passages without any issues.
Check out the photos for more details and let me know if you have any questions.

The SUP rests on hooks connected to the lower shrouds. Straps hold the SUP securely to the standing rigging.

in Tech Topics

Upgraded Stern Rails and Lifelines

September 6, 2017
We recently completed upgrades to the aft lifelines of Alembic. Our goal was to add a mounting place for solar panels as well as to increase safety and security. First we added a stanchion just aft of the mizzen shrouds. We then added top and mid rails using 1″ SS tube and associated fittings. We connected these rails to the stern pulpit using hinged connectors (see photo).  After locking everything together with the mechanical set screws at the fitting joints, we took the stanchion and rail assemblies to a local welder to weld solid all the joints between tube and fittings.  The overall stern railings and pulpit are comprised of 3 sections.  There are the two aft quarter sections that are the stanchion and rails as a welded assembly and the original stern pulpit.  The side rails connect to the stern pulpit at the hinged connectors shown in the photos.  The rail sections on the aft quarters provide an excellent place to mount solar panels on hinged mounts.

100 Watt solar panel mounted to stern rail

 

 

Hinged Connector to connect side rails to existing pulpit

Rail connection to existing stern pulpit

We terminated the rail sections with anchor points to support the attachment of lifelines.  We replaced the wire lifelines with Dyneema line. Finally, we added a section of 1″ SS tube along the cockpit exit for additional security when entering and exiting the cockpit. This is a fairly easy installation using “90 deg T fittings” placed on top of existing stanchions to connect the 1” SS tube.  The Dyneema line extends through the center of this tubing section for added security.  A key fitting in this assembly is the “90 deg T fitting with anchor” (see photo) to support the connection of the lifeline gate.  This particular fitting is supplied by Sea-dog and was a special order item at my local marine store.

Solid section of lifeline at the exit of the cockpit to the side deck

The Dyneema line extends through the SS tube

Dyneema line connects to a turnbuckle then to the stern rail

T Fitting with Anchor for Connecting Lifelines

The upgraded stern rails and lifelines enhance the  safety and security of Alembic.  Support solar panel mounting was also very important to us.  With our mizzen mast, adding an arch to hold solar panels is not a simple installation.  We also have a canvas bimini so adding panels over the cockpit is also not an easy solution.  Given these constraints, the stern rail mount is a great option.
in Tech Topics

No Davits? No Worries

May 1, 2017
If your boat does not have davits, a great way to lift your dinghy out of the water is to hoist it up the side of the boat using a mast head halyard.  All you need is a simple single point lifting harness, an available halyard and an open winch on the mast.  It is a great way to stow the dinghy at night or in choppy anchorages.
We have frequently thought of adding davits to Alembic but keep coming up with reasons to postpone the project.  One reason is the cost.  Davits are expensive.  The other downside is that we would lose valuable space on our stern.  Currently we have a boarding ladder on our stern and plan to add a windvane.  Finally, we have a mizzen boom.  Unlike the nice arch arrangements that many boats install, our davits would need to be below the mizzen boom.
In the absence of davits, we have come up with other clever ways for handling the dinghy.  While at anchor, we like to lift our dinghy out of the water using a mast head halyard.  This has several advantages.  The bottom of the dinghy stays clean and free of growth.  The dinghy is settled in a choppy anchorage; it does not bounce and splash all night long.  And finally, we feel the dinghy is more secure from theft.  It would be very difficult for someone swimming from shore to access the dinghy out of the water.  We have a simple single point lifting harness that we attach to 3 points in the dinghy leading to a lifting ring.  The harness is balanced so that the dinghy hangs with the bow slightly higher than the stern for water to drain.  To lift we simply clip a mast head halyard to the ring and winch it up using a winch on the mast.
While traveling offshore, we like to have the dinghy on the forward deck.  The dinghy is wonderfully secure there in even the largest of seas.  We have measured the time it takes us to remove the motor at the stern and then hoist the dinghy on the bow.  The entire process takes us less than 15 minutes.  Anytime we plan to travel more than 3 or 4 miles, we stow the dinghy on the forward deck to avoid the loss of speed from towing.  Given these techniques for handling the dinghy, it is likely we will postpone the addition of davits indefinitely.
in Tech Topics

Fixing a Broken Boom Fitting

March 19, 2017
Anytime we take Alembic offshore we expose her to conditions that can make things break.  We try to sail conservatively and stay on top of our preventative maintenance.  In spite of best efforts, we still have unexpected gear failures.  During a recent passage from Cayman Islands to Belize we had the goose neck on the main boom partially shear off the mast.  I discovered the failure when I went forward to put in a reef to prepare for an approaching squall.  I immediately dropped the mainsail and we finished the passage with Mizzen and Genoa (Jib and Jigger).  Luckily we have an extra mast on Alembic!
So what made the goose neck fail?  The conditions were not particularly rough, however, they were conditions that can cause a bit of wear and tear.  Specifically, we had wind directly astern and wind speeds that were abating after days of high winds.  The seas were still running 5′ to 7′ but the winds had been dropping to <15 kts especially in the interval between squalls.  These conditions can be particularly annoying because it causes the sails to slat.  We were controlling the slatting as best we could with a tight preventer working against the main sheet.  In spite of this, several times an hour the boat would roll in a big sea and the boom would swing toward the centerline and then back out with a load THWACK!  This action creates a tremendous load on the goose neck fitting.
The goose neck of our boom attaches to a short track on the back of the mast.  The top most 1/4″ machine screw sheared allowing the track to pull away from the mast.  If the failure had gone undetected for a longer time, it is likely that more screws would have sheared and the goose neck pulled completely free of the mast.
Once in port, I quickly dove into the repair effort.  Luckily the goose neck track was easy to disassemble.  Who ever originally installed the track used sealant on the threads of the SS screws so there was no corrosion between the screws and the aluminum mast.  One contributing factor to the failure was the goose neck car was positioned at the top of the track so that a single screw was taking much of the load.  Instead of remounting the track in the same position, I moved the track up a few inches on the mast.  I then drilled and tapped all new screw holes.  Finally, I remounted the track to the mast using plenty of sealant to minimize future corrosion.
This repair was a good test to see how well prepared we were with the correct tools and spar fasteners.  I would give myself a “B” for this effort.  We have a great cordless drill and a good selection of drill bits.  We had the necessary spare fasteners for the job (1/4-20 x 1″ stainless machine screws).  We had a 1/4-20 thread tap in new condition.  The only thing we were lacking was a larger 3/8″ tap that we needed for one particular hole.  The hardware store in Placentia did not have the necessary tap.  Luckily, I was able to borrow one from my neighbor in the anchorage at Placentia.  So now I have a new item on my shopping list.  Next time I find a well stocked hardware store, I will purchase a Tap and Die kit that has a full range of sizes.  I will also add to my fastener collection which is something I do continuously.
The lingering question we always have when events like this occur is would we have been able to deal with this problem at sea if it were to occur on an extended passage.  In this case, I am confident we would have been fine.  I could have completed a partial repair quickly and easily while offshore and made a more complete repair while in port.
Finally, this event serves as a reminder that things break while cruising and putting them back together is part of the adventure.  It is essential, however, to have the skills, tools, and spare parts to handle these events with minimal stress and disruption to the lifestyle.
in Tech Topics

Cetol vs Armada Teak Finishes

February 25, 2017
Like every other owner of an old boat, I have spent many hours refinishing teak.  I have worked with varnish, teak oils, Cetol, and most recently Armada.  At this stage of our life afloat we find ourselves sailing as much as possible so we are looking for durable products that can be applied with a reasonable amount of effort.  Most importantly, the ease of follow-on upkeep is critical.
In the 2015/2016 winter season we sailed a 7000 mile loop from Maine to Colombia through the western Caribbean and back to Maine. This trip exposed our bright work to heavy sun as well as salt exposure.  The cap rails in particular took a beating.  As much as I love the look of varnish, I am certain that varnish would have started to blister and peel during this period creating an enormous amount of work to strip and re-varnish.  Teak finishes such as Cetol and Armada have the look of varnish but are more forgiving relative to upkeep and maintenance coats.  Both products call for an initial application of 3 coats.  Single periodic maintenance coats will keep the teak looking fresh.  Most importantly areas with peeling are easy to sand and re-coat.  I usually apply a spot coat on the bare areas followed by a single maintenance coat all over.
During our 2015/2016 season we had Cetol on all of our bright work and it performed well.  The cap rails required a single maintenance coat every 3 month or so but the hand rails and cockpit trim made it through the season in good shape.
Recently I decided to try Armada on my cap rails to see how it would perform.    The Armada is more clear than Cetol and looks very close to varnish.  I took advantage of mild weather while traveling through the Bahamas to strip the Cetol and apply the Armada to bare wood.  The Cetol strips very easily with a heat gun followed by light sanding.  My favorite trick is to take advantage of motoring on windless days to run my inverter (and heat gun) while the engine is churning out excess amps.

Removing Old Cetol Finish with Heat Gun

We left the boat in Georgetown Exumas at Christmas with the cap rails looking great.  Unfortunately, when we returned mid-February, the Armada was already showing signs of blistering.  After this experiment, I am switching back to Cetol.

Freshly Applied Armada Teak Finish on Cap Rail

My only complaint with the Cetol is the orange opaque coloring.  What I realized, however, is that it is only necessary to apply one or two coats of the Cetol Light (pigmented) and then switch over to Cetol Gloss (clear) for all other maintenance coats.  This keeps the finish looking more like varnish.  Like everything else with boating, there are trade-offs but Cetol provides a decent gloss appearance without the effort of varnish.

Cetol Marine Gloss. First Coats Should be Cetol Marine or Light

Armada Wood Finish – Clear Satin. 3 Coats with First Application

in Tech Topics

Water Filtration/Purification Basics

January 26, 2017

Water water everywhere nor any drop to drink!  A bit of trivia, that line comes from a poem entitled The Rime of the Ancient Mariner by Samuel Taylor Coleridge published in 1798.  Pure water is essential for safe and trouble free cruising.  Our experience has been that water is generally available everywhere from a variety of sources.  Regardless of the source of the water in our boat tanks, water purification is a necessary practice.  Water can be contaminated with a variety of things that can give us an upset stomach or worse!  Let’s cover what might be in our water.

  • Sediment – this is simply dirt, very fine particles of dirt.
  • Chlorine – a blessing and a curse, chlorine or related chemicals called chloramines can come from municipal water systems where it is added as a disinfectant or self-induced as part of our purification practices.  I put bleach in my tanks when I get water from a questionable source like a river in Panama.  It is best to remove the chlorine before drinking.
  • Organic chemical contaminants – these can come from the source water contaminants like pesticides or from chemicals leaching out our tanks and water lines.
  • Heavy metals – lead and mercury are at the top of the list.  Lead can contaminate water from piping and tank materials.  Mercury is everywhere largely coming from environmental contaminants (things like burning batteries in incinerators).  Long term exposure to these contaminants is unhealthy; particularly for developing brains.
  • Microbes and other creepy crawly things – these are one of the biggest concerns for cruisers.  Nothing ruins a day like a good dose of Ecoli sometime in the prior 48 to 72 hours.  Ecoli, fecal coliform bacteria, and Cryptosporidium Oocysts are common in water that is found in countries outside the USA.

So, what is the best way to get rid of these contaminants from our water?  First of all, we don’t need to eliminate these things from all of our water.  From a practical perspective, only the water that we plan to drink directly from the tap needs to be purified.  The most practical solution is to have a dedicated tap in the galley for the purified water and then a good filter to purify the water just upstream of the tap.

If you were to Google “water filters” you will find a dizzying list of websites that offer an extensive range of filter options, most target the home consumers.  Trolling through a boat show, you will likely find the Seagull system on display.  This system has excellent performance and with a relatively small stainless steel filter housing is well designed for a boat.  The trade-off for the Seagull’s appealing size is cost.  The units are more expensive than standard filter housings.  The replacement cartridges for the Seagull system are also more expensive than other standard sized filters.

As an alternative to the Seagull system, it is possible to achieve similar performance with a standard 10″ filter housing and a multi-stage filter cartridge with a pore size <0.5 micron.  On our boat we have a system using two standard 10″ housings in series.  In the first housing between the tank and a dedicated faucet for the filtered water, we use a standard 5 micron granulated activated carbon (GAC) filter element.  This element eliminates excess chlorine, some organics and reduces particulates for the primary filter.  The primary filter is a Doulton Ultracarb ceramic filter element.  The Doulton Ultracarb filter has multiple stages. The first stage consists of Doulton Ultracarb ceramic which provides genuine sub micron filtration. The cartridge reduces fine particulate matter, bacteria, cysts and turbidity.  The pore size of this stage is <0.5 micron.  Integrated into this stage is an anti-bacterial matrix containing silver, making the element self-sterilizing and inhibiting bacterial growth in the filter.  Stage 2 is an inner core of activated carbon block that removes chlorine, taste, odor and organic compounds.  Having this allows the Doulton filter to be used as a single cartridge installation eliminating the need for the pre-filter.  Use of the prefilter, however, extends the life of the Doulton filter.  Stage 3 is ion exchange resin that reduces Lead and other heavy metals.

Doulton Filter Cartridge Construction

The Seagull company does not provide details of the construction of their filter cartridge. From a comparison of the performance data, it is likely similar to the Doulton Ultracarb in construction.

Both units have comparable performance.  What is likely to drive your final purchasing decision is the size of the 2 different units.   The system using standard size components is a lower cost alternative but is a larger unit to accommodate on your boat.  A cost comparison is provided below.

Either system will be a wise investment and an essential piece of equipment to keep the crew healthy.

 

 

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