220V Circuit for European Cruising

During our planning for European cruising aboard Alembic our Whitby 42 ketch, we researched extensively the best solution for adapting to the 220V power standard that we would find in Europe.  After looking into the various  options for step down transformers, we decided to simply add a dedicated 220V shore power service.  Alembic was built in the USA in 1981 and has the typical 110V 30 amp AC service of a cruising sailboat.  We have interior outlets and just a couple of AC appliances.  Specifically, we have a 2000W charger/inverter and a water heater that is 1500W AC or heated from engine coolant.  All of our other AC requirements like computer charging is supported by a small 150W 12V to 110V inverter.  With the prospect of leaving the boat in the water unattended for the European winter, we felt that it would be important to have a reliable source of electric heating and a dehumidifier.  The 220V dedicated circuit was recommended by other boats from the USA as a low budget and reliable approach to support these appliances.

The first element of the 220V shore power circuit was the external connector.  The shore power receptacle that we found in stock at the chandlery in France was designed for exterior installation but was not the typical flush-mounted receptacle that is more common in the USA.  Given that we may remove the circuit at some point in the future, this exterior mounted receptacle seemed like a good choice because it also did not require a 2” hole to be cut in the cabin side.  We mounted the receptacle inside a cubby hole in the cockpit coaming.  The cable then went down into the interior of the boat through a water-proof cable gland.  The other advantage to this more simple receptacle is that it uses a standard 220V/16A power cord typical of RV’s.  The shore power cord was approx 50 euro and the receptacle was approx 45 euro.  A flush-mounted receptacle and shore power cord with locking ring connector would have been in excess of 200 euro.

 

The next element of the circuit was to add a breaker panel and breakers.  It turns out that these components are common for residential use in Europe.  We found everything we needed at a “Do it Yourself” hardware store in Belgium. A circuit of this nature uses a 30mA differential current breaker combined with a 16A overload protection breaker.  The differential current breaker eliminates the need for a GFI receptacle.  As a side note, the differential current breakers are becoming the standard for new construction in the USA.

For the final element we needed to add receptacle inside the boat.  Thinking again that the circuit may be a temporary installation, we chose to use a simple pig-tail style receptacle instead of a wall mounted receptacle.  This pig tail extends out through a locker in the main cabin.  When not in use, it is simply tucked away.  Into this pig tail receptacle we plugged a power strip for connecting AC appliances.

As for 220V appliances, so far we have purchased an oil-filled radiator heater.  This will be set on the lowest setting to keep the cabin above freezing throughout the winter.  We also purchased a Seaco dehumidifier to control the dampness inside the boat.  Finally, we purchased a simple “smart” battery charger at an auto parts store to keep the batteries charged while living dockside for extended periods.

The complete investment for the 220V circuit and appliances has been less than 250 euro.  An alternative approach would have been to install a step down transformer to continue to use the existing 110V circuitry.  Marine step-down transformers are nearly $1000 and require a fair amount of space for installation.  Alternatively, some people use an inexpensive outdoor power tool transformer (yellow plastic box) that can be purchased for less than $100.  This type of transformer would have been left on the dock or on the side-deck where it would have interfaced with a standard shore power cord.  We were not confident that this type of installation would be robust enough to handle 5 months of winter weather and could have been a fire hazard.  Given these less desirable alternatives, we are happy with our 220V AC conversion.