April 2017

My heart was filled to bursting when Kenny and Jenna arrived at Grand Cayman. Missing our children is the single most challenging aspect of this lifestyle of cruising. I have to remind myself that they are all loving, growing, learning, and creating their own journeys independently now. Some days I’m relaxed with this concept of distance, while at other times I just want to fly home and move in to their homes.

When my babies were small, I quit my engineering career to be with them every moment. Two days after my last day on the job, I opened my day care. This allowed me to be with them while they learned to navigate a complex world filled with others. Ok, I admit it; I manipulated their world to bring in kids who would enhance their development. Wonderful kids their age, including two cousins, filled their days with continuous opportunities to grow as healthy, cooperative, curious, and adventurous people. Every day I marveled at their progress and couldn’t imagine missing one moment. So every chance I get to again be side by side is a gift.

Less than 3 days after our arrival at Grand Cayman, we were ready to show Kenny and Jenna “our island”. Visitors may think we’re ready to be tour guides when they visit us, but rarely do we actually have a clue about these new places we visit! Eager to get started, and disregarding their travel fatigue, we brought them from the airport back to Alembic to dump their small bags, went to the marina restaurant for a quick bite, chatted with the fish tournament participants as they showed off their gigantic catch, untied Alembic, and headed out into the sound.

On our way into Governor’s Creek, we rescued a Pirate ship. Yes, no typo. Earlier this morning, when we sailed toward the airport, Bill and I noticed that this ship was aground. Figuring that they knew how to kedge off or that someone would help them, we hurried along to meet Kenny and Jenna. Finding them still aground surprised us. No one had offered assistance? So many power boats in the area pass this spot regularly. Rarely can a sailboat offer assistance to such a large vessel, but we had to try. They tossed us a gigantic rope which I secured to a cleat and put all 100 horses to work. Most Whitbys have 75 hp or less, Alembic’s 100 was appreciated today. After a few different angles of pull, they slowly pivoted and floated free.

Early the next morning, we sailed out of the North Sound to snorkel at the deeper Stingray City location (there are two Stingray City spots nearby). Here we saw a few stingrays and assorted other fish, but with the strong winds and rolly anchorage, we didn’t stay long, and headed back into the tranquility of the sound. Taking the dinghy ashore and exploring by land seemed like a better idea, so we headed to Cadillac Jacks, a fun beach bar in the sand of 7 mile beach on the Western coast of the island. Here we met some Brits who were cooling off by swimming while wearing their elegant clothing and trying not to spill their drinks!

Cost U Less doesn’t seem like a fun touristy place to visit, but we needed food, and Kenny and Jenna helped choose our week’s menu here. After storing our purchases, we ventured out of the sound again, this time making it around the northwest corner to sail south to an anchorage off the city. We swam from the boat, snorkeled in the clear beautiful water, and came ashore to appreciate terra firma, a welcome stability after a few hours of trying to master sea legs. Seeing the Green Flash at a sweet little bar where the waitress kept calling me Mum, capped off our day.

By morning, we knew we had to get back into the sound. All of the boats on the western side of Grand Cayman were perfectly safe, but rolling around all night and day was not a great plan for us. So we let Kenny and Jenna off on land to explore the town more, while Bill and I sailed Alembic up around the corner again, back into the sound. Alembic was thoroughly soaked with salt spray by the time we arrived back in the harbor. The bus ride north was much more pleasant for Kenny and Jenna. And the sail across the sound to Kaibo was even more tranquil!

Kaibo is an excellent anchorage to access the beauty of Grand Cayman. We dinghied around the corner to Starfish beach, then enjoyed fabulous snorkeling at Coral Gardens and a daiquiri at Rum Point. Dinghying after dark to luminescent Bay was interesting too, with swirls of magical light when you drag your hand through the warm water.

A rental car was our mode of transportation the next day so we could cruise the entire island. Snorkeling at Barefoot on the eastern shore, lunch at Eagle Rays, and more snorkeling on the south coast at Spotts Beach to frolic with the carefree huge turtles made for a full day. Dropping off the car near Camana Bay gave us a great spot to appreciate Happy Hour while we waited for the water taxi to arrive to bring us back across the sound to Alembic.

Even with oodles of tourists pouring off the charter boats, we had a blast swimming among the sting rays. Used to being fed daily by humans, these creatures came up to and onto anyone, especially if you had a bit of squid in your hand. They seemed aggressive, but never hurt anyone. Ready to move away from the increasing crowds, we dinghied a bit farther north and snorkeled around the dramatic reefs which enclose the North Sound.

A gentle sail back across the sound brought us back into Camana Bay. Here, we tied to a dock for the night. No dinghy was needed to step off, have a beer or enjoy another Gelato!

Each of us was a bit subdued the next morning, knowing that our blissful week was over. Worries about travel swirled for each of us. The younger set faced taxis, multiple plane rides, and a long drive home, while the older folks were facing a rough ocean passage to Belize to meet Erica and Wes in 7 days. But my heartache was the realization that Kenny and Jenna had to return to Maine. Grateful as I was for their wonderful visit, sadness prevailed that day as they departed.

I have been reflecting since their visit how magical Kenny and Jenna are together and as individuals. They flow seamlessly from adventurous activities to total relaxation which is a gift in our hectic world. And their love for each other is an inspiration to all. Endlessly kind and playful, they bring Joy to every day. Our next time to be together will be in Colorado for Erica’s graduation, so I am buoyed with more wonderful thoughts of togetherness.

Let’s just start with We Love the Bahamas. Maybe it’s because we ventured here so many times on Wings, our beloved Westsail 32, back in our twenties. Maybe because we meet so many peers out here. Maybe it’s the easy going lifestyle. How can you explain when you love a place? I guess it just feels like home. Maine will always be home, but the Bahamas is our second home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Four flights after leaving Boston, we arrived in Georgetown and took Elvis’ water taxi to Alembic.

My presumption of finding a boat full of mold and bugs was quickly cast aside when we came below to the scent of …. nothing. Those of you who have spent time aboard Alembic will know that I’m a bit neurotic about bugs. When I find one teeny tiny crawly thing, I tear the boat apart, scrubbing every surface, and repackaging all food. If you know of a good Bug Haters Anonymous meeting, let me know.

Why do I always forget to take pictures of good friends? I guess I’m too busy enjoying their company to think of it until it’s too late. Dinner aboard the Hallberg-Rassy Balance with friends Staffan and Kicki and another visit on Echo with Jeff and Mary were two such events that I wish I had captured with photos. Cruising is challenging, socially, because we repeatedly meet wonderful people whom we have to keep parting with. Luckily, as our itineraries continue to move us in meandering paths, we often meet up again. So we never say Goodbye.

Staffan took this picture of us just after we used the boat hook to pass them a book as we departed Georgetown. Nothing like a near collision at dawn with all of us looking a bit sleepy. Speaking of sleepy, our trip to the Cayman Islands was five days of sleepiness. With not enough wind to push us along, the diesel engine earned its keep. An unusual passage, with no spray flying over the rails, Bill brought out his computer and telecommuted. What a brave new world we live in where we can sail through the Caribbean while remaining connected to our careers.

This could have been a lovely time for Bill and I to just sit back and enjoy each other while Alembic crawled for five days around Cuba, but other plans were in the making. Bill had burned his mouth at the airport on a hot potato (no, I’m not joking) and this burn developed into a full blown miserable mess. Barely able to eat, he conversed via our inReach with my brother, Dr. Paul, and our med school daughter, Lindsay, to figure out how to cope. Message to all: test your potatoes before you toss them back into your delicate throat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of these days we will visit Cuba. Kenny and Jenna were about to arrive in Grand Cayman, so we admired the spectacular mountains while only about 10 miles off the coast for 200 miles. The coastline fell away from our route at that point, and the remaining 600 miles of Cuban southern coast disappeared from view.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good ole Chris Parker, our weatherman, nailed it again. He said “get in by Wednesday at noon; a strong northwesterly will make further travel perilous”. Our boring five days sure didn’t feel like anything was brewing, but we still motored along quickly enough to heed his warning. We arrived at dawn Wednesday, cleared customs by ten, and headed for shelter as those winds kicked in. The massive cruise ships which had arrived with us that morning struggled to get their guests aboard that afternoon. One ship, Monarch, had to move to three different locations to manage to board everyone safely and head away from the dangers of a rough coastline.

While the west coast of Grand Cayman began to get battered by the huge waves, Alembic rested quietly in the North Sound. I wouldn’t recommend coming here if you draw more than 7 feet; you would struggle to get into the safe harbor. Luckily, with only 5 feet below the waterline, we were able to drop our anchor in many tranquil spots and fully enjoy this unique island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Such a bizarre combination of humanity intermingles here. Banking is the main industry, and it shows, with the many fancy hotels and well dressed polite people. Weaving around this fanciness, you find glamorous homes in tranquil canals, fishermen selling their catch, chickens everywhere, cruise ships disgorging thousands of people each day, and endless young people from all over the world finding work in the resorts, shops, banks, and restaurants. Undefinable in their diversity, Grand Cayman has something for everyone.